Boston Baked Beans and Brown Bread

I can't let barbecue season pass without bringing up one of my all-time favorite summer barbecue side dishes, baked beans, but first a story. In the mid 80's I worked in Boston, the "Cradle of Liberty." I was very excited to try authentic Boston Baked Beans, a recipe that has been around since colonial days. Not wanting anything in a can, I was looking for the real deal. Little did I know that I was in for a really big disappointment?

You're going to go shopping

One morning by the Charles River, I began asking people where to find authentic beans. Nobody seemed to know—mixing them up with the candy with the same name. While doing my research, I came across some information in Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, about the nickname "Beantown, which refers to the regional baked beans. But this nickname is almost exclusively used by non-Bostonians and is rarely used by natives." The Urban dictionary says “Beantown” is a "Horribly outdated nickname for Boston, Massachusetts that no self-respecting Bostonian or New Englander uses. It is only typically used by tourists, sportswriters, or television reporters new to the area. The name stems from the New England food staple of beans slow-baked in molasses." I also learned about the "Great Molasses Flood and the Great Boston Molasses Tragedy” on January 15, 1919, in the North End. Apparently a "large molasses storage tank burst, and a wave of molasses rushed through the streets at an estimated 35 mph, killing 21 and injuring 150." I also discovered the connection of molasses, rum and the slave trade.

Clean your beans and soak overnight

All the ingredients for a really good story about early American history. But that's not what I was after. I was looking for real, honest to goodness retro comfort food. As hard as I tried I couldn't find them anywhere. I also couldn't find authentic Boston Brown Bread, traditionally served with baked beans or Boston Cream Pie. Suddenly there was a huge crack in my culinary universe.

Score salt pork in a cross hatch style

Brown salt pork rind side down

While doing my research, I came across some information in Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, about the nickname Beantown. "Beantown, which refers to the regional dish of baked beans. This nickname is almost exclusively used by non-Bostonians and is rarely used by natives."

Flip and cook all sides of salt pork until crispy

I also learned about the "Great Molasses Flood and the Great Boston Molasses Tragedy, occurred on January 15, 1919, in the North End neighborhood of Boston, Massachusetts." Apparently a "large molasses storage tank burst, and a wave of molasses rushed through the streets at an estimated 35 mph (56 km/h), killing 21 and injuring 150."

Add to beans

I also discovered the connection of molasses, rum and the slave trade. All the ingredients for a really good story about early American history. But that's not what I was after. I was looking for real, honest to goodness retro comfort food.

Add molasses to beans

The Urban dictionary says Beantown is, "Horribly outdated nickname for Boston, Massachusetts that no self-respecting Bostonian or New Englander uses. Typically used only by tourists, sportswriters, or television reporters that are new to the area. Name stems from the New England food staple of beans slow-baked in molasses."

Cooking the salt pork

INGREDIENTS

1 lb. Navy beans, dry

1/2 lb. salt pork, cut cross hatch, not through rind
1 med. Vidalia onion, diced, optional

1 tsp. salt

1/2 cup molasses, unsulphured

1/2 tsp. dry mustard

2 tbsp. brown sugar
1 tsp. baking soda
NOTE: About 8-10 servings.1 cup dried beans = 2 to 2-1/2 cups cooked beans. Think next time I'll add 1 tablespoon of tomato paste and substitute 1 tablespoon brown sugar with 1 tablespoon of pure grade B maple syrup.

Add water up to beans, place salt pork into the beans above water

First I needed a recipe. After searching the Internet I found a cookbook published in 1876 by Fannie Merritt Farmer, of the Boston Cooking School. This had to be a good source. Obviously they didn't have slow-cookers in 1876, so I thought I would give the beans a bit of an update. My recipe is adapted from Fannie Farmer's version.

Deglaze salt pork pot with water

Wash the beans and discarding any questionable ones. Dirt and pebbles from the field and dust from the silo and bits of rock hidden in with the beans. Cover the with fresh water and allow to soak for a couple of hours, or overnight. In morning, drain and cover the beans with more fresh water. Heat the beans slowly, but do not allow to come to a rolling boil. Cook the beans until their skins burst (about 2 minutes), just below boiling. Her recipe says "drain beans, throwing bean-water out of doors, not in sink." I didn't understand this until actually cooking the beans. Her recipe calls for scalding the salt pork in water. I opted to brown the salt pork like bacon instead.

Add deglazing liquid to bean pot

Since I was using a slow cooker, I put the beans into the pot and then pushed the lightly browned salt pork into the beans sticking out. I  poured enough fresh water to cover the beans, but not the salt pork.

Turn to high and check in 4 hours

Combine the salt, molasses, mustard and sugar with 1 cup of the cooking water from the beans. Bring to a boil and pour over beans and pork in pot. If necessary add enough more bean liquid to cover beans. Cover the slow cooker, set the thermostat to high and cook for 5 hours. Using a tongs, remove the salt pork from the beans and place rind side down in a small skillet. Place the salt pork skillet into a preheated 350°F oven and bake until the salt pork turns brown and crisp.

Remove salt pork and place in oven

Remove the salt pork from the oven when well browned. Return the browned salt pork to the bean pot. Stir the beans and add more water if necessary. Be careful not to add to little or to much water. Now would be a good time to taste the beans. If you like add more brown sugar or maple syrup to balance the molasses.   

Salt pork out of the oven

Turn the crock pot to low and cook the beans for about another 1-2 hours. The entire process should take about 6 hours. When you are finished cooking the beans, add more water if necessary. There should be a saucy consistency.

Now that's better

The aroma of the beans should be filling your kitchen by now. Your probably asking yourself what to serve with these homemade beans. Boston Brown Bread of course. Baked beans and brown bread is a traditional Saturday night supper.

Boston Brown Bread lightly toasted and served with soft butter

The brown bread is also flavored with molasses and compliments the baked beans perfectly. Fannie Farmer also has a recipe for Boston Brown Bread in the same cookbook.

Saturday night supper, baked beans and brown bread

In closing, if you don't have the time to make homemade beans, some of the store bought varieties are good as well. What you add to your beans is a personal choice. Don't like salt pork? Add maple bacon. Do you like hot dogs? Add them too. Want it sweeter, add more sugar or maple syrup.
How do you like your beans? What store bought brands do you like? Leave your comments below.